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Upsizing Your Tyres

Written by Dan Everett

Get any group of 4WDers together and sooner or later the topic of tyres will come up. “How big are they?” It’s almost an unspoken rule of 4WDing that you’re judged by either the distance you’ve travelled, or the size of your tyres. It makes sense too; chest beating aside, tyres are the key component between you and the terrain you’re driving. If you had a 1000hp engine and the world’s flashest camper you’re not getting anywhere without the right rubber putting power to the ground.

A good set of tyres can make your 4WD go further, use less fuel, float across surf-soaked sand and even tow better at freeway speeds. The wrong set can turn even the best tow-tug setup into an unusable waste of driveway space. So, keen to know what the key is to tyre selection and stepping up a shoe-size in your 4WD? You’re in luck, because we’ve already made all the mistakes for you.


If you’re the type who has driven 500,000km offroad on stock size rubber you might be scratching your head wondering why people are so emotional about big tyres. That’s fair enough, you’re clearly performing miracles. Regardless, what is it that draws people to them? The short answer is offroad ability. But it might not be in the way you think.

There’s a common misconception that the greatest benefit in airing down your tyres is the increased width you gain as they bag. The real benefit is in the length of the tread touching the ground. The more tread on the ground, the more grip you’ve got, and the less likely you’ll get bogged. Larger diameter tyres have a larger footprint. It not only gives them more traction but also makes them less likely to dig down into soft terrain like mud or sand. Think of it like standing on two feet instead of one and you’re on the right path.

Of course, the benefits don’t end there. The other factor is the diameter itself. Sure, it might seem reasonably obvious, but the benefits of a larger rolling diameter are more than you’d expect. The big one often touted is more clearance under the diffs, but I can count on one finger the times I’ve been diffed out, and that was in a HiLux on 37in tyres in a situation that would’ve required a lot of quick explaining if the long arm of the law had found us. The real benefit is improved angles. The larger diameter effectively makes every obstacle you come across smaller by the same amount. It’s like running over a small piece of wood on a skateboard or a mountain bike. The large the tyre, the less it gets knocked around by obstacles, and that includes corrugations.

It's not all just about offroad ability either. More aggressive tyres are tougher offroad too. Despite stepping up to a reasonably mild 285/70 R17 on the Ranger compared to the stock 265/65 R17, the actual tyres carcass is now protected by an extra 10mm of rubber thanks to the more aggressive tread pattern. The thick rubber wraps around onto the sidewalls providing more protection against staked tyres, and the tyre itself is more difficult to penetrate thanks to a beefier construction, although more on that later.


“Yes!” I hear you say, “all tourers should run 40s”. Eh, not exactly. Y’see, as much as I’m a proponent for larger tyres they’re not without their fair share of setbacks. Throughout your drivetrain you’ll find gear ratios all calculated to work together. X amount of RPMS in the engine, multiplied through Y ratio in the gearbox then Z through the diffs, and it’s all worked out on the stock diameter tyres. Changing one without changing another to suit can knock your gearing around. Now it’s not all bad news. Some 4WDs from stock struggle to hold a gear with a camper on the back at set cruising speeds, they’re on the edge between one gear and another. Fitting larger tyres can often knock things around enough that you’re firmly in one gear to do the same speed letting the tow-tug power through easier. The result is less strain on your drivetrain and a saving at the pump as the engine is no longer labouring. It sounds backwards, but the science checks out.

The other main issue is unless you’re excited at the idea of taking to your pride and joy with a 5in grinder, making even moderate-sized tyres can be more trouble than it’s worth. Your options generally fall into monster lift kits, which open up their own can of worms, or make the tyre fit at stock height (even with a mild lift kit you’ll quickly bump back to stock height through difficult terrain). It’s a delicate juggling act to make the tyre fit between the front bar and firewall, and if you’re anything like me will see you taking to a new 4WD with a lump hammer.


There’s no such thing as a free lunch and that extends right through to tyres too. You don’t get physically larger, thicker, and stronger tyres without having a few drawbacks. The main issue is increased load on your drivetrain. Heavier wheels spinning with more momentum will put more load on drivetrain components like CV joints, driveshafts, brakes, transfer cases, and gearboxes. There’s no dodging this one. Breakages are more likely, acceleration times will slow, and braking distances will increase. How much depends on how big a jump you make in tyre size, although different brands of tyres have different weights so it’s worth taking that into consideration.

Now as much as we like to pretend they don’t exist, the boys in blue are privy to this info as well so in most states anything over a 50mm increase in rolling diameter will require engineering; a complicated process that requires all sorts of nonsense like swerve tests and brake tests. Actually, that stuff might be reasonable, but it’ll still hit your hip pocket.

If you’re travelling in remote country you’ll need to factor in the availability of spares as well. That super large sidewall tyre might look the goods on your rig and give you 17.376 percent more capability offroad, but if you’re sitting around with your thumb up your backside waiting for spares you won’t be bragging to too many people about it.


So how do you go choosing the right set of shoes for your rig? It can be broken down into a couple of categories.

The first is the tread pattern. Larger tyres alone won’t give a noticeable amount of grip if they don’t have the teeth to bite in. In the early years the general rule was the larger and deeper the voids in the tread the more grip the tyre would have, sort of like a tractor tyre. The problem with these tyres are the lugs could physically deform under load making the 4WD feel unsettled cornering, and would also perform poorly on side slopes. These days with computer-modelled patterns and intelligent rubber compounds you’re able to get more grip out of a less aggressive tread pattern. After all, there’s a reason many tyre tread patterns are starting to look similar. If you’re spending your weekends bouncing off the limiter in Victorian mud, a full-blown mud tyre might still be the key to success, but for general offroading including a fair chunk of low-range action, a milder mud-tyre or aggressive all-terrain will be a better balance between offroad ability and on-road manners. If you’re more of a tourer than an offroader, a traditional all-terrain will give most of the benefits of an offroad tyre while still driving like a highway-terrain.

You’ll also want to keep an eye out for a big LT stamped into the tyre’s body. That stands for Light Truck construction. If you’re hauling concrete slabs the difference is a higher load rating, but for us offroaders LT construction means the tyre will have a physically stronger bead so it’s capable of running lower pressures, will have thicker plies inside the tyre to protect against stakes, and will generally have deeper tread too.


People often say you can’t fit a square peg in a round hole. But they’re wrong. Fundamentally so. Context is important, and just like a 1cm square peg will easily fit in a 10cm round hole, fitting the right tyres to your 4WD isn’t all about the tyres. For a lot of people, the wheels of choice are just the right style, but there’s a few things you need to consider. 

Most modern 4WDs (and even some 20yo ones) run larger brakes. That almost always counts out smaller rims like 15s and some 16s. Alloy wheels are generally thicker than steel to account for material strength so they’ll run into brake calliper clearance issues before their steel counterparts. 

The offset also comes into play. Put simply, it’s the relationship between the mounting face of the wheel, and where the tyre mounts. A +20 offset means the tyre is kicked in towards the vehicle 20mm from the centre line. A -44 means the tyre is kicked out 44mm from the centre line. Getting the balance right is key, which is why many people leave it to the wheel and tyre shop. Too far out and you’ll have clearance issues with the guard, too far in and you’ll have clearance issues on the firewall and steering arms. Each vehicle is different, so there’s no set formula on this one.

While cheap wheels with sweet financing deals might seem appealing it’s worth noting any imperfections in the wheel are amplified the larger the tyre choice. Things like inconsistent metallurgy or even deformed wheels will all become bigger issues, with larger tyres requiring huge amounts of weights to try and keep steering vibrations down.

The other issue to consider is the diameter of the wheel itself. In years gone by, the rule was the more sidewall the better. Here, in reality- land, it’s pretty clear you’re not jumping off three story buildings, so larger rims with lower profile tyres generally give more steering feedback and more direct handling without compromising offroad ability.


  • Stephen Muller: November 04, 2021

    I know that I’m 6 months late to the party here but regarding wet weather on-road grip and in reply to Jeff Kennedy on May 18th:

    Jeff, you will never ever get the same kind of on-road wet-weather grip from a big off-roading 4wd that you can get from a little road car. Just not possible. The bigger 4wd’s designed for off-road need a harder compound otherwise they would just wear out too quick. Most get used for long distance towing and buyers are demanding 50,000 klm tread life. You can’t get that with a grippy soft compound tyre.

    I know that tyre manufacturers are always making grand claims about new rubber chemistry that give wet weather grip and long tread life. And it’s true that they are making significant advances, but you will never be able to step out of your Corolla into a Landcruiser and get the same grip.

    You just have to accept the fact that when you are driving a 2 ton truck with a harder compound you have to go slower, corner slower and allow longer braking distances and watch the zippy little urban runabouts go past.

    But, for the record, I am running Yokohama Geolanders on my FJ Cruiser and I’m found them to be pretty good on and off road.

  • Karl Blumkaitis: June 18, 2021

    Good story Dan, although a some of it was a little unclear. In my experience with my own vehicle (2007 Kia Sorento diesel), fitting the widest and largest diameter tyres I could reduced fuel economy by up to 200km per tank, and due to the gearing effect mentioned, greatly reduced acceleration and power delivery. The car needs at least 2000 rpm to really get moving. I fitted BFG All Terrains, and they’re great off road and acceptable on it. As most of us spend 99.99 % of the time not driving off road, mud terrains as everyday tyres are terrible. They’re hideously noisy, wear very quickly, and don’t grip well, especially in the wet. I would never again buy muddies, as decent all terrains are perfectly fine in all situations. I find increased tyre diameter is at least as important as tread pattern off road, for the reasons mentioned. I’ve taken my Kia through rough terrain on stockish tyres that left fellow observing 4WDers mouths agape…

  • Bernard: May 31, 2021

    One other thing to note… If you fit larger tyres than your 4WD was designed for, it will affect the calibration of your speedometer. A larger diameter wheel will rotate more slowly for a given road speed than a smaller one will. The effect isn’t huge but is noticeable. Since fitting bigger tyres my speedo now reads about 4km/h low, so when it says I’m doing 110 on the freeway I’m actually doing 114, and that’s getting a bit close to the trigger point for those pesky plain-wrapper camera cars we find in Victoria. Caveat emptor!

  • Chris: June 18, 2021

    I read your spiel about tyres. One big issue that was not addressed with larger diametre and wider tyres, unless you add weight to your vehicle you are actually decreasing grip of your tyres. As you enlarge the footprint/contact to “terafirma” the actual psi / square inch or kg / square centremetre decreases , therefore giving you less grip! Great in sand and mud, but certainly not for real rough terrane territory. It would be far better for ALL 4wdrivers to learn how to drive the stock correctly. It would surprise many, to find out how far you can actually go using proper driver skill and your brain/common sense! With all of the promotion of jacking up the vehicle, big wheels, trax and lockers, the general 4wdriver is not learning how to drive and negotiate the terrane. Tracks are being needlessly destroyed, along with the environment. Set yourself up with a decent 12 volt air compressor, tyre deflators and be man enough, to let you bloody tyres down instead of wrecking the tracks for other drivers. We wonder why so many areas are being locked off because of gross irresponsible behavior and lack of respect by not doing the right thing, because of the BIG WHEEL syndrome!

  • Tom McKaskill: June 18, 2021

    I did not see any mention regarding the variance of actual speedometer readings as well. Larger tyres put my speedo out by 5kph.

  • Jeff Kennedy: May 18, 2021

    What tyres would you recommend for a Pajero Sport used mainly on the tarmac planning some off road in the near future. the tyres that came with the vehicle are not very grippy in the wet. They are TOYO Open Country 265 60 R18. I have been off road and they were ok in the dry conditions. But I want to consider changing them.

  • Gary Rowe: May 18, 2021

    Found the tyre article interesting and informative without the tech talk. Simply explained and valuable information.

  • Chris: June 18, 2021

    Note that the statement that you can have a 50mm increase in diameter legally, is true, but there are conditions.
    You can’t raise the height of a vehicle by more than 50mm without engineering. So if you have 50mm tyres and a 50mm suspension lift then you have increased vehicle height by 75mm which is illegal unless engineered. (SA rules)
    Be cautious and consider all of your mods together and seek advice.

  • Graham Ellis: May 18, 2021

    Beg to differ with last paragraph, for off road driving the smallest possible wheel with the biggest possible tire provides the best possible result adjusted to the correct pressure for the occasion , works well here in W.A , low profile tire for off road use is looking for trouble

  • Ian: May 18, 2021

    Hi Dan.
    I think the final statement isn’t quite correct. I think lower profile does compromise off road ability.
    More pinched sidewalls and shorter tread length with deflation .

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